Monday, May 10, 2010
Wave at the Nat
Once when i was surfing in Waikiki a wave rolled along and invited me for a ride. Ahhh, what a glorious journey. On and on it flowed and then I got to that iffy spot where the frothy foam is almost all gone and the original swell is all but forgotten and with a little bit of sidesteppin' and slight maneuvering, we slid on, my board and I. Onward atop the billowy froth of the next waterous flowing hill. On it went, carrying my exhilerated body almost to the brink of the Natatorium. Grinning from ear to ear with a little triumphant jiggle and then fell into the bath-warm, salty Pacific. What a ride! Ever so gentle, not very large, and only because I was there at the right rime and accepted such a swell invitation.